Recently, when I sat down with my quill to resume writing my semi-autobiographical novel about a half-deaf scribe with a 300-word vocabulary, my mind wandered in the direction of lunch. I had yet to purchase any sandwich fare for the start of the workweek, so I donned my suit of armor and headed for Fairway’s deli counter.
If you are unfamiliar with Fairway, it is an Upper West Side institution that began expanding in 1995 to many exotic locales including Paramus, New Jersey and Plainview, Long Island. It is a very aggressive supermarket that has a tendency to bring out the psychotic in its patrons. I once overheard a man scream at a woman (not of his acquaintance) in the bread department, “I hope you die, bitch!” She shot back, “See you in hell, asshole!” I resisted the urge to tell her that she was already there. Instead I played a more natural role, a mute weasel, and slipped in between them for a bagel.
Fairway’s deli counter is almost as notorious for it’s multitasking customers talking on their cell phones while barking orders (To deli-man: “Make sure you spoon my cole slaw from the top.” To cell phone: “Did you remember to record Spartacus?”), as it is for the deli guys who are trained to mask their contempt for their clientele with blank stares. I have shopped there long enough that I’ve witnessed most of them detonate at one time or another, and although those exchanges are entertaining, I’m grateful that thus far, I’ve escaped getting hit with any flying asparagus spears.
On this visit, I’m on a cold cut expedition. As usual, the deli counter is teeming with antsy shoppers eager to pounce when their number is called. To mess with the patrons’ heads, the deli guys often call a stream of numbers in fast succession, “Eight! Nine! Ten!” This is the deli-man’s way of punishing the customers standing and waiting in response to those that chose to leave, probably in search of abuse elsewhere on store premises. If customers with numbers eight, nine, and ten all happen to be present, there is a shouting match cluster-fuck as everyone screams intent on drowning each other out.
“Hey, down here, ten!”
“Wait a minute, what about me? I’m eight!”
“You called nine! Over here, nine!”
Another sadistic tool in the Fairway deli-man’s arsenal is to call out the numbers, but they don’t advance the number on the monitor. The monitor might still read forty-six, but the customers waiting know that they’re currently serving whoever has number fifty-two. Often patrons grumble to each other, “Is it so hard to change the number on that thing?” There are also occasions when the deli-guys overshoot a number or two and that can almost start a riot worthy of the six o’clock news.
Fairway is basically a store where you enter assuming you’re sane, but it can be such a Lord of the Flies type of experience, you exit seriously considering entering therapy, or worse, you’re in therapy and you blow your session not talking about the mate/job/life you hate, but how much you hate shopping at Fairway.
So, there I am at the deli counter holding number sixteen. I’m feeling pretty good about my chances because Sheldon the Incompetent, who could earn Olympic gold, if screwing up deli orders were an Olympic event, is not on duty. The roast beef looks the way I like it, fresh and rare. The one next to it is the color of my thigh, and even without the cellulite, it looks equally unappetizing.
The deli-man calls my number, I hold up my pink sixteen ticket and say, “Over here.” He approaches me. I request a half-pound of roast beef “from the one on the right” which is technically his left. He reaches in and pulls out the one I want, so my blood pressure does not shoot up. Therefore, odds decrease exponentially that I’ll suffer a stroke at this moment. It has occurred to me that eating this roast beef will probably clog my arteries and eventually lead to a heart attack, possibly even in Fairway, but fortunately that doesn’t happen today. Tomorrow is another story, since I’ll need bananas by then. <shudder>








































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